Nice hike crossing Zuruldi range and offering phenomenal views on some of the most prominent peaks of Caucasus
One of my favorite hikes in the proximity of Mestia. It crosses Zuruldi range and offers phenomenal views on some of the most prominent peaks of Caucasus such as Ushba, Tetnuldi, and Layla. The walk usually finishes in picturesque Tsvirmi village.
I should mention here that there are actually three variants of the hike to Tsvirmi - this one uses cablecar to get to the top of the Zuruldi ridge (if it´s running).
You can also climb up on foot, (the route is described here)
or just follow the valley of Enguri river.
The walk can be adjusted into an easy day hike with the return to Mestia
or the first stage of a longer trek (usually to Ushguli).
If you want to return to Mestia on the same day and don't success to find a car at Tsvirmi, you will have to walk another 30 minutes to the main road at the Ughviri pass. There, you just be just in time to catch some daytrippers returning from Ushguli.
The descent from Mentashi transmitter is tricky, but overall, this is still an easy walk.
From Zugdidi to Mestia:
Marshrutkas to Mestia depart daily, there is at least one in late morning and one in the afternoon. Morning marshrutka departs from the bus station situated by the bridge around 10 am (or even later if not full). Afternoon marshrutka waits for passengers of train from Tbilisi, which arrives around 14:30. Therefore, they wait in front of the Zugdidi train station. There might be some odd marshrutka in-between on you might get lucky and board marshrutka stopping at Zugdidi along its route to Mestia, but that cannot be guaranteed.
Either way, the price of the ride is 40 GEL and the trip takes almost 4 hours, mostly due to a rather large pause these buses tend to make around Khaishi.
If you get lucky or travel in a larger group, it could make more sense to secure your spot at shared taxi that depart from the station by the bridge (and in the afternoon from train station as well). The price tends to be 300 GEL per the whole car (70 GEL pp if the taxi is full), but varies depending on the situation. Trip is faster since any break is optional, takes 3 hours or so.
From Tbilisi to Mestia:
Few years ago, the best option used to be the overnight train to Zugdidi. However, it was cancelled in 2020 due to covid and there are no signs that it's going to be restored anytime soon. There is also a long-distance bus leaving at noon, but it also goes only as far as Zugdidi.
Currently, I would recommend the day train. It departs from Tbilisi at 8:20 and makes it to Zugdidi at 14:21, with marshrutkas to Svaneti waiting for its arrival.. The price of the ride starts at 16 GEL, which is less than 5 EUR. Tickets can be bought in advance at matarebeli.ge website (the official web is railway.ge, but that never worked for me). Just one important thing - tickets are released for the online sale only some 15 days in advance, but it's not explained anywhere. So don´t freak out if you can´t buy your ticket online because of the "no tickets available", "trains not found" or some similar error. Just try later :)
If you fail to secure the spot on the train, you may be forced to take a direct marshrutka - two minibuses depart at 7:00 from the area in front of Main Railway Station, come at least 30 minutes earlier to catch a spot. Another one departs at 8:00 from Samgori railway station and there should be something from Didube as well. The price is 40 GEL, so it´s quite cheap, but I can´t recommend it since this uncomfortable journey takes grueling 9-10 hours - basically, it's just slower, marginally cheaper and much less comfortable alternative for the day train.
If the are not travelling alone and don't mind spending some extra bucks, you might prefer a direct taxi. Those can be either arranged at bus stations or prebooked - looking at the prices of one of the most popular Georgian transport website, gotrip.ge, prices for the private transfer from Tbilisi to Mestia start at 550 GEL (180 EUR) for the group of 4.
The last option you could consider is flight - there are 4 flights a week from Natakhtari airport near Tbilisi, operated by VanillaSky company . You would see Caucasus from a completely different perspective and for 90 GEL it´s quite a bargain. On the downside, they occassionally get canceled because of the weather and during the summer, you should book at least month in advance since they get booked up pretty fast. For more info, pls check this excellent post about the flight (covers also flight from Kutaisi).
From Kutaisi to Mestia:
This depends on whether you want to get to Mestia from the city or from the Kutaisi airport.
In the first case, your best options is the direct minibus (the price is 40 GEL) departing from the station behind McDonalds. There is a fixed departure between 9:00 and 10:00 am, but if you want to secure your spot, better get there at 8:00-8:30 since it's popular among tourists and will depart much sooner if full.
According to locals, if this marshrutka gets full and leaves before 9:00 am, they will send another one. If it gets full later, they might not.
There may be also others during the day if there are enough tourists, but I wouldn´t rely on that. If you miss them and there is none other direct bus available, look for a marshrutka to Zugdidi (price 10 GEL) - it's the same way and you can find there transport to Mestia more easily (especially if you notify your driver in Kutaisi that you need to continue to Mestia).
If you are travelling directly from the airport, you also have some options. If you are travelling alone, there is a regular shuttle departing in the hourly intervals in the direction of main bus station (5 GEL or so) and take marshrutka from there. Or, if you are willing to spend extra money and save time, find someone to share taxi with. It's actually pretty easy - do you see any people with hiking backpacks? If yes, there is a pretty high chance they are heading to Svaneti so this is a great chance to save some money and get to know some people.
If you are not alone and travel straight from the airport, you might want to book your taxi in advance. In this case, at gotrip.ge, prices of the transfer from the Kutaisi airport to Mestia start at 340 GEL, which is actually pretty solid. If you haggle with taxi drivers loitering around the airport and don't look to desperate, you might get a better price, but not by much.
From Batumi to Mestia:
Apart from a taxi, there are two options. Marshrutkas depart from the main bus station. Unless you are lucky, you will have to switch the bus in Zugdidi (you may have to wait for several hours there), so this ride will take a better part of the day. The first bus should depart around 9:00 am, then there should be another one at 9:30 am.
Another option is the direct transfer provided by Budget Georgia. The price is 80 GEL, which is not that expensive compared to the price of marshrutka. Just pay good attention during the booking, since the ticket has to be paid immediately.
The first marshrutkas to Zugdidi, Batumi and Tbilisi depart early in morning, around 7 am. every day in the morning at (these should be booked one day in advance). There are more during the day, depending on the demand. There should be also some marshrutkas departing in the afternoon to Zugdidi, just in time to catch the evening train to Tbilisi which departs at 17:25. However, since marshrutka schedules are not 100% fixed, better visit station in advance to confirm this and book tickets.
For exact timetables and booking of the tickets, visit the travel offices at the station. Just keep in mind that there are several offices and don't buy tickets too far in advance. We met tourists who entered the first office, bought there tickets for the next bus which departed in 2 hours and then had to wait even though there were several other marshrutkas (operated by another offices). If you can't find a suitable tickets and are not under a time pressure, I recommend just to grab a beer at the bar by the station, sit on the terrace and check the situation once in a while - sooner or later, some driver driver will show up.
If you prefer to have everything pre-planned, you might book a taxi in advance, especiallly if you are not travelling alone. The cost of prebookeded private transfer from Mestia to Tbilisi starts at 550 GEL. Of course, you might get an even better price if haggling with local drivers, it all depends on who you stumble upon. Svan drivers are often quite reckless - if you don't like the driving style of your driver, don't be shy and say so.
Looking for a place to stay in Mestia before the hike?
These are my favorite guesthouses
A modern cable car bringing people onto the Zuruldi ridge. Middle and upper stations were built in 2011 and in 2018 was completed also the bottom station, so tourists can drive to the top from the the edge of Mestia (with a switch of seats in the middle). The price for the ride to the top and back is 25 GEL, near the upper station is a restaurant with terrace and gorgeous views.
The cable car operates from 11:00 till 16:00 pm. It doesn't work in rainy or foggy weather. If you are not sure, ask at Visitor’s center at Seti Square and confirm if it currently works or not.
Mentashi transmitter ahead
Distance | 11,2 km |
Trail type: | AB trip |
Max. elevation: | 2451m |
Min. elevation: | 1398m |
Total climb: | 390m |
Total descent: | 898m |
The trail starts at Seti Square. Leave it by a street heading to the southeast, after 200 meters cross the bridge and turn right. Cross another bridge and walk by a museum. Main road here bends to the east - follow it for about 400 meters, then turn right. After a short climb, you shall reach the lower Hatsvali station.
Buy the ticket and ride to the top (you will have to change line at the middle station). You might want to check views from the Zuruldi cafe, then return to the tourist pointer in front of the cable car. Originally, trail did head to the east, but in 2024, there is a fence with "Private property" sign, so a different approach is needed.
Facing north, follow the dirt track to the right of the cable car. After 100 meters of slight descent, you will reach the junction. Turn right - from here, the track follow the top of the ridge towards the transmitter you can occasionally see in the distance. This ridge is not totally flat - you will keep going up and down, but only for a short stretches, nothing truly challenging. Occasionally, you will get some nice with both to the north and south, but most of the time, your vision will be obscured by trees which grew on the ridge over past 10 years.
Some 30 minutes later, you will reach a hiking pointer showing the yellow-marked trail to Ieli village, but you should stay on the large dirt track. Here starts the final climb to the transmitter - rather steep, but luckily not too long, in total you will have to climb only 100 altitude meters.
Once you make it to the transmitter tower, there is some fenced area and a metal wall straight ahead. On the left side, there is a narrow opening between metal fence and bushes, right by the yellow marking. Enter it and follow a narrow trail, leading right beneath transmitter disher so the other side of the hill, onto a wonderful viewpoint. From here, you can admire Tetnuldi peak ahead, Ushba to the north as well as Svaneti range to the south. And many other mountains and villages, not going to name them all.
View from the transmitter to the east
At the other side of viewpoint, you see a narrow trail steeply snaking downwards. After some 15 meters, watch for an even smaller trail branching to the right. You need to take it - if you continued straight, you would soon get into some pretty steep, uncomfortably exposed terrain
Trail to the right is stee as well, but not dangerous - at worst, you would fall on your butt. Pass between two pines with yellow marks, last steep, but short drop and the worst is behind you.You shall emerge onto a meadow, cross it and another another forest (this is where the trail is joined by another, bypassing transmitter from the south)
Bypassing Mentashi transmitter from the south
The trail then crosses several belts of trees and pastures.. After two kilometers, you will come to a spot where it turns north and dives into the forest. From here, it's supposed to continue to Mulakhi village. First sections are decent, but further stages are in a poor shape so I don't recommend it. But if you have time, you can make a small side trip - after first 300 meters, there is a meadow with nice views of Mt. Ushba.
In case you want to go directly to Tsvirmi, keep walking east. Follow the grassy path between trees - on your left will be a dense forest, on the slope below you a small group of trees. Once you walk pass this grove, turn right and descend some 50 meters. You will find a path, which soon turns into regular dirt road - too narrow for a car, but wide enough for a cart. This track will take you all the way to Tsvirmi.
Tsvirmi is a lovely hamlet, barely touched by tourism. If you want to spend a night here, you will stumble upon a guesthouse soon after you enter a village.
If you want to carry on to Ughviri pass, head to the center of the village, where you will find tourist marker. There is an arrow showing the trail to Mestia pointing to the west (Inguri valley path), but it's too far that way so we will set off in the direction of Zhabeshi. Just follow the main road and after two kilometers you will come to Ugviri pass. Here you will (hopefully) hitch a ride back to Mestia.
Finished the hike and looking for more?
Here you will find all hikes around Mestia
In the past, Tsvirmi was visited only by few tourists and so it managed to retain a lots of its charm. However, that also meant that the offer of accommodation was very limited. The situation changed only in the past few years and nowadays, the village boasts at least 4 guesthouses. Only one of them can be booked online but even if it´s full, there are enough alternatives.
Shorena's guesthouse - added to Booking.com only in june 2019, but looking at the photos, I am almost sure this is the place where I stayed few years ago. This very pleasant homestay lies at the northern edge of the village, right by the trail descending from the Zuruldi massif. The family running it was really lovely and the food was good and plentiful. During my visit, their beds were somewhat saggy but I heard that this was also fixed in the meantine so now can be this guesthouse strongly recommended.
Looking back from the dirt track to Tsvirmi, transmitter visible in the distance